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Piedzīvojumi Omānā: klinšu kāpšana, kanjonings, Jebel Misht...
Komentāri: 42; Autors: Kristaps (www.vx.lv)
Tēma izveidota: 24.03.2009 16:36:45; Pēdējās izmaiņas: 13.12.2010 11:53:27

Nupat kā esam atgriezušies (Vita, Māris, Kristaps) no pēdējos gados iespaidīgākā piedzīvotā ceļojuma - nepilnas divas nedēļas pavadītas Omānā. Kāpām klintīs (neiedomājami interesanati "sporta" sektori, prātam neaptveramas bolderinga iespējas!), devāmies kanjonos (gan ar 4x4 džipu, gan kājām, gan nolaižoties pa virvēm, lecot ūdens "baseinos", peldot, nirstot...), līdām alās un kāpām tuksneša smilšu kāpās, uztrekingojām Omānas augstākajā kalnā, daudzas naktis pavadījām zem tumši zvaigžņotajām debesīm, vakarus vadot pie ugunskuriem... un kopā ar Jurģi un alžīrieti Hamzu uzkāpām Jebel Misht Franču pīlārā (sienas augst. starp. ~1000m, maršruta garums ~1200m, Fr.6b+, 12 stundās). Paldies visiem, kas piedalījās šajā piedzīvojumā! Neliela foto reportāža skatāma šeit!

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Uz Omānu vēlreiz - jau šī gada pašās beigās!?
Vai būtu interesenti doties uz Omānu šī gada pašās beigās (novembra beigas/decembris)!? Pasākums varētu būt visai bagāts ar piedzīvojumiem: kanjonings, klinšu kāpšana, trekings kalnos un plašākos kanjonos, 4x4 "off road" braukšana, peldēšanās paradīzes stūrīšos un tuksneša smiltīs, speleo "ielīšana" alās...

Autors: Kristaps (www.vx.lv), 02.04.2009 20:22:59


Jebel Misht un citas kāpšanas vietas Omānā
Informāciju par Jebel Misht Franču pīlāru var lejuplādēt šeit (mēs arī to lietojām): http://www.omanclimbing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=686 Bet kas pats galvenais - Omāna ir lieliska kāpšanas vieta ziemas sezonai ar ļoti daudzveidīgām klinšu kāpšanas iespējām sākot no bolderinga, caur īsākiem un gariem sporta un tradicionālajiem maršrutiem, līdz pat ļoti nopietnām klinšu sienām. Daudz info par sektoriem var meklēt turpat http://www.omanclimbing.com/forum/index.php (Climbing Guides).

Autors: Kristaps (www.vx.lv), 27.03.2009 18:08:07


:)
viens ir skaidrs - Kristapa bildes ir rosinājušas interesi par Omānu.. :)

Autors: vizma, 27.03.2009 17:56:45


:)
Skaistas bildes - paldies par fotoreportāžu! Iespaidīgs ceļojums. ļoti interesē kāpiena apraksts Jebel Misht Franču pīlārā.

Autors: vizma, 27.03.2009 16:16:44


Ir arī video nedaudz...
Vakar nedaudz papildināju bildes. Gan jau sarosīsimies uz kādu stāstu arī. Un vēl ir video - vairāk gan tāds RōdMūvī :) par braukšanu ar 4x4 pa tiem drausmu ceļiem Wadi (kanjonos), bet ir piefilmēti arī daži skaisti mirkļi gan kāpjot, bolderingojot, gan kempojot un peldoties skaistās vietās, gan ceļā uz JebelSham, gan vēl šis tas (stundas trīs, kas jānoīsina uz kādu nepilnu stundu varbūt, lai ir interesantāk skatīties).

Autors: Kristaps (www.vx.lv), 27.03.2009 14:40:50


Avio uz Omānu
Lidojām caur Stambulu (un dīvainu papildus nosēšanos AbuDabi) ar Turku Aviolīnijām, dīvainā kārtā paspējām nopirkt salīdzinoši ļoti lētas aviobiļetes (tikai Ls350.- parasto ~Ls550.- vietā). Izlidojām no Rīgas ap diviem dienā, pa vidu četras stundas Stambulas lidostā un septiņos no rīta ielidojām Muskatā. Turki lidmašīnā baro labi, protams, gulēšana draņķīga krēslā, bet to jau var pieciest, nav pirmā reize. :) Atpakaļceļā uzreiz pēc pusnakts izlido no Muskatas, no rīta pāris stundas Stambulā un ap diviem dienā bijām jau Rīgā.

Autors: Kristaps (www.vx.lv), 26.03.2009 16:44:17


Doma neslikta :)
Cik aptuveni maksa biletes? Caur kuru lidostu (aviokompaniju) braucat?

Autors: gasha, 26.03.2009 13:50:29



Nūu, lai no tām fantāzijām labākas ainiņas uzburtu, kāda bilžu galerija nenāktu par ļaunu? Piedzīvojums jums fantastisx.. tā zeme arī... :)))

Autors: Pingvinčix, 25.03.2009 20:10:29


Vienkārši ideja...
Iedomājieties. Gada beigās uz Omānu dodās pāris desmiti Latvijas alpīnistu lai visi pāris nedēļu laikā izkāptu daudzus Jebel Misht maršrutus (drausmīgi plašas iespējas!)... Tāda kā TradClimb alpiniāde... Varam taču pafantazēt? :)

Autors: Kristaps (www.vx.lv), 25.03.2009 19:35:32


Tā tas ir
Vēlētos vēlreiz pateikties visiem kāpiena dalībniekiem un super - suportīmam. Tas bija to vērts :O

Autors: Jurģis, 24.03.2009 18:18:21


Par Jebel Misht Franču pīlāra kāpienu
Lūk, viens no šī kāpiena dalībniekiem, Hamza, raksta (no http://www.omanclimbing.com/forum): "So after our attempt on the south east face (yes Jacob, our first intention was to repeat "Riddle in the sands" but we had some navigation problems), we were back to Misht for round 2. This time we were further south and had two things we did not have in our first attempt: pitons and experience. We did not use the pitons but Kristaps' experience; a visiting mountain guide from Latvia, was crucial. We repeated the classic line in the South face of Jabel Misht. We climbed the French pillar, in a single day push with light backpacks, and completed the ascent in 12 hours. Along with Vita and Maris, our valuable support team, we camped, bellow the pillar in a nice and secluded camp spot at the end of the drivable track, and started the actual climb just before daylight. No time for warming up; the first part is quite steep. After a final awkward move, we were at the first belay, large enough to hold the three of us; a nice and exposed stance, ideal for socializing. Climbing in a party of three can be fun. Well to a certain extent; the second pitch is a bit harder and had loose flakes, one should negotiate only with extreme care, "Sheet…" I just had time to look down when I heard the word, and saw Jurgis pulling off a big flake. Jurgis did not fail his reputation for cleaning routes, but that was the only big alert of the day. After the second pitch, the gradient eases down. We found a lot of evidence of previous attempts: bivouacs, fixed ropes, slings, pitons, bolts, and even a box full of food cans… enough items to set up a climbing museum. We made a good progress as we reached the bottom of the headwall before noon. The delay that a party of three might cause was largely compensated by Kristops' efficiency in route finding. It was the hottest time of the day. We found a shaded spot for the first and only rest of the day. It was not easy task to tackle the head wall. We had some memorable pitches with corners, faces, cracks and chimneys with some really enjoyable moves…may be not for the leader! After a brilliant corner, we started traversing slightly to the left to reach a nice crack (crux) that ends up at a bolt with an East-Germany made gate (another interesting piece for the museum). The description we had seems to suggest going left from there, but we headed right instead to a pinnacle. We found an old sling with a ten years old DMM screw gate. I thought it is not a good omen; probably a party had to bail off from this point. The next pitch was indeed hell. It was a steep section and started with a stemming between the pinnacle and the main face and then one bold move to get on the face which has only microscopic and excruciatingly sharp chicken heads. The face had no decent protection. Kristaps did not find enough features to place the belay; so we climbed with a stretched rope! in theory at least, as I had few meters of slack. I could hear the Latvian bear groaning. What the hell, it is too unpleasantly sharp to just stand there. The final pitch was a wide chimney with an awkward first move. Finally we made it before sunset. We enjoyed the sight of big brownish eagles with an impressive span, and wild goats (Tahri?). But, celebration was rather short as the way down was very unpleasant. That night, three torches were moving down the rugged ground of the north flank, to the amusement of Omani drivers. Luckily Vita and Maris were kindly waiting at the bottom and warmly welcomed us. They even dressed a frugal dinner table!"

Autors: , 24.03.2009 16:43:35


Daži fakti par Jebel Misht
Citāts no "OmanToday": "Jebel Misht boasts the highest freestanding rock face in the entire Arabian Peninsula. Ancient cultures have settled at its foot as is evident by the famous tombs of Bat. These stone structures are usually the only connection to Jebel Misht drawn by the usual tourist to the sultanate, although a mountaineer will certainly look beyond the tombs and towards the vast south face of the mountain. In 1979 a French team led by Raymond Renaud came to Oman to explore the mountaineering possibilities in the Hajar Mountains. They picked Jebel Misht as their target and tried to do a relatively direct line to the main summit via the 1,000m high central pillar of the mountain. The French used ‘besiege’ tactics, set up gear depots by helicopter, installed endless lines of fixed ropes (the remains of these can be still seen on their route today) and were successful after 20 days and about two kilometres of climbing up the mountain."

Autors: , 24.03.2009 16:40:43


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